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A Guide to Sunscreen Selection

Every day, experts recommend that we wear sunscreen.  This guide will help you understand the different types of sunscreens and how to choose the best one for your skin type.

What is sunscreen?
Sunscreen is typically a lotion or cream that helps protect your skin from the sun.  The sun gives off ultraviolet (UV) rays that can damage your skin. There are three types of UV rays: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA rays can go deep into your skin, causing premature aging. UVB rays can cause sunburns and help our bodies make vitamin D. Both UVA and UVB rays can damage skin cells and increase the risk of skin cancer. UVC rays are absorbed by the Earth's ozone layer, so we don't need to worry about them.

What is SPF?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It's a measure of how well a sunscreen can protect your skin from UV rays. The higher the SPF, the more protection it provides. For example, SPF30 blocks about 97% of UV rays, while SPF50 blocks about 98%. Experts recommend using a sunscreen that's water-resistant and has an SPF of 30 or higher, and is “broad spectrum” which means it offers protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

What are the different types of sunscreens?
There are two main types of sunscreens: physical and chemical. Physical sunscreens contain minerals like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that reflect UV rays away from your skin. Some people don't like them because they can leave a white or gray color on the skin, but newer formulas use smaller particles that look less white on darker skin tones.

Chemical sunscreens contain ingredients that absorb UV rays and convert them into heat. This can sometimes cause skin damage, so many brands add antioxidants like vitamins C and E to help protect your skin. It's often recommended to use a moisturizer or serum with antioxidants before applying a chemical sunscreen.

Physical and chemical sunscreens protect skin from UV rays; however, they do not provide visible light protection. Tinted sunscreens protect against UV rays and visible light. Visible light, especially blue light from electronic devices, can damage your skin and cause dark spots and uneven skin tone. Tinted sunscreens use ingredients like iron oxides to protect against visible light. These sunscreens are also useful for people who have skin conditions like melasma and hyperpigmentation because they block visible light which can make these melasma and hyperpigmentation worse

Which sunscreen is right for me?
The best sunscreen for you depends on your skin type and lifestyle. If you have sensitive skin, you might prefer a physical sunscreen. If you have acne or oily skin, look for a non-comedogenic, oil-free formula. If you have skin conditions triggered by visible light, consider a tinted sunscreen. You can also talk to a dermatologist to get personalized advice.

In January 2021, Hawaii banned the sale of chemical sunscreens containing certain ingredients believed to harm coral reefs. Many brands now offer "reef-safe" sunscreens without these ingredients. As of August 2021, the FDA has confirmed that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, used in physical sunscreens, are safe and effective. They're still studying other ingredients used in chemical sunscreens.

Concerns

Potential Solutions

“My sunscreen leaves a white ashy cast.”
  • Put on the right amount of sunscreen in thin layers. Make sure to rub each layer into your skin before you put on the next one. 
  • Choose a tinted sunscreen that is the same color as your skin. This type of sunscreen will protect your skin and blend in well. 
  •  Look for clear sunscreens that have tiny particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in them. These ingredients can help protect your skin from the sun. 
  • Put on foundation and bronzer over your sunscreen to help reduce the white cast. Pick a product with iron oxides (visible light filters) to keep your skin safe from visible light. 
  • Think about using clear chemical sunscreens. These are sometimes called “primers” because they can also work as a base for face make-up.

“I keep forgetting to apply or reapply sunscreen.”
  • First, pick the sunscreen product(s) with SPF that you want to use every morning. Put these products near things you use every day, like your face wash or toothbrush. This will help you remember to put on sunscreen every day. 
  • Get a small, travel-sized sunscreen. Carry it with you all day. 
  • Think about getting a small, travel-sized sunscreen powder for touch-ups during the day.

“I don’t like the texture or greasy feel of sunscreen.”
  • Sample different sunscreen formulas, including lotions, creams, serums, oils, gels, sprays, powders, and balms to find the texture that appeals to you.
  • Choose oil-free sunscreens that have “non-comedogenic” on their product label. These products tend to feel less greasy.
  • Finish your morning skin care routine with a thin layer of oil-absorbing powder to help control shine.
  • Apply a SPF-containing powder in the afternoon to nix any greasiness that develops during the day.

“My sunscreen causes acne or breakouts.”
  • Choose “non-comedogenic” and “oil-free” sunscreens
  • Explore SPF-products that are specifically created for people with oily or acne-prone skin.
  • Choose a physical sunscreens since the UV filters in chemical sunscreens may irritate sensitive skin. Acne-prone skin is sensitive skin, and many acne medications increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
  • Consider tinted sunscreens as the tint in the formula can help conceal any discoloration or blemishes.
  • Discuss acne medications with a board-certified dermatologist if this problem persists.

Sunscreen application tips:

  • Choose water-resistant, broad-spectrum formulas with SPF30 or higher
  • Remember that sunscreen should be applied to every area of skin that is not covered by clothing. Commonly neglected areas include the ears, hands, feet, and neck.
  • Use about 1 ounce, which is about a shot glass, of sunscreen to cover the entire body
  • Use a ½ teaspoon of sunscreen to cover the face and neck
  • Remember that even water-resistant sunscreens and high-SPF sunscreens should be reapplied directly after swimming or sweating.
  • Remember that, regardless of SPF, sunscreen should be reapplied every 2 hours when you are outdoors.

References:

  • Raffa RB, Pergolizzi JV, Jr., Taylor R, Jr., Kitzen JM. Sunscreen bans: Coral reefs and skin cancer. J Clin Pharm Ther. 2019;44(1):134-139.
  • Dumbuya H, Grimes PE, Lynch S, et al. Impact of Iron-Oxide Containing Formulations Against Visible Light-Induced Skin Pigmentation in Skin of Color Individuals. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7):712-717.
  • Xu S, Kwa M, Agarwal A, Rademaker A, Kundu RV. Sunscreen Product Performance and Other Determinants of Consumer Preferences. JAMA Dermatol. 2016;152(8):920-927.
  • Lyons AB, Trullas C, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84(5):1393-1397.
  • He H, Li A, Li S, Tang J, Li L, Xiong L. Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Biomed Pharmacother. 2021;134:111161.
  • Schneider SL, Lim HW. Review of environmental effects of oxybenzone and other sunscreen active ingredients. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;80(1):266-271.
  • Narla S, Lim HW. Sunscreen: FDA regulation, and environmental and health impact. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2020;19(1):66-70.